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What is NOTwax

Waxing Techniques

The Purple Hayes Process

Submitted by Sean Hayes
This unique and unorthodox process is a variant of the Felix Process and will greatly increase the longevity of your hotwax, it broadens the temperature range and it's fast! Initially it may take a little more time to apply, but ultimately you will save time, because you will not need to wax again for at least two weeks of very hard riding!

After this initial process you will only need to touch up your base throughout the season.

1.) Prepare or clean your base… hotscraping is the best.

2.) Apply a liberal coat of Zardoz and prepare to hotwax. With this process always apply the Zardoz before and during hotwaxing.

3.) For the base coat begin hotwaxing with a good base wax (soft wax) for deeper base penetration. I’ve found that nonflouro or hydrocarbon waxes perform much better with Zardoz than fluoro waxes.

4.) The key to the waxes longevity in this process is continuous warming of the wax, allowing it to penetrate deeply into the base. You should be working the wax into the base for up to 20 min or more, being careful not to overheat the base. During this time apply Zardoz 2-3x’s intermittently, you may need to let the base cool between coats. You should be able to see a good film of Zardoz on the wax. The wax will begin to penetrate into your base and become thin and a bit gummy. This gumminess is good, this is when the wax begins to change it’s chemical properties. You should begin to easily see the base structure as the iron passes over it. Continue to slowly work the wax into your base remembering to add Zardoz.

5.) Now begin applying the hotwax for the snow conditions. Non fluoro colder hard waxes work better, even in warm snow conditions… I’m using a 5* and colder graphite wax for all conditions, ranging from below 0* Jackson Hole to 65* SoCal springtime slush. This is a fast setup, faster than any wax or speed additive I’ve used in any condition.

6.) Using the same process as above (3A), repeat step # 4 as many times as you'd like, to saturate the base with Zardoz and hotwax, (world cup skiers do this up to 150x's)... 2 or more x’s with this process will give you a very hard and fast base lasting up to two weeks or more of hard riding.

7.) When the base is completely saturated with Zardoz and hotwax and it has become very thin and a bit gummy… stop and let your base cool completely.

8.) Begin to scrape the base (the wax should be very hard) leaving a thin layer of hard wax filling in the base structure. I’ve found that a tri scraper works best at leaving an even layer of wax behind. Buff this thin layer with a cloth (cotton works best). The longer you buff/polish the faster the base will be. I do this for 5 min or more. You're looking for a hard, flat, smooth and shiny base. If you’re good, you will see your reflection!

IMPORTANT: When using ZardozNOTwax DO NOT structure, brush or use a fibertex pad on your base. A flat, smooth and shiny base provides Zardoz contact with the snow, taking advantage of Zardoz’ extreme hydrophobic nature and the extreme hardness of the new wax. Also, this process will work best if your base has a flat stone grind rather than a structured stone grind, yes, even in wet spring conditions!

9.) When you're ready to ride, apply Zardoz if snow is wet or moist… If snow is cold or dry, leave base as is.

10.) Enjoy smoking all of your friends!!!


The Felix Process

Submitted by Felix Rabanal
Felix Rabanal, from Albuquerque, was the very first pro snowboarder to start using NOTwax regularly. He was also the first to tell us about his method of using NOTwax with traditional wax. Felix organizes snowboarding demos virtually every weekend in New Mexico and frequently has to deal with user-unfriendly snow conditions. He found that by using NOTwax with wax he could obtain a base treatment that outperformed everything else on the market. Since then we have received many reports of similar NOTwax-wax applications. Here's a general description of how it is done.

1. Clean the base thoroughly with wax remover, perhaps several times. Make sure the base is clean and dry before doing the next step. For best results, have the base freshly stone ground with a very smooth finish. The process will last much longer on a sintered base but will have equally good short-term performance on an extruded base. It is extremely effective with graphite bases.

2. Apply NOTwax liberally and let it soak in overnight in a warm place (with the base facing up). Reapply NOTwax the next day so that the base surface looks wet but is not dripping.

3. Apply a hard race wax that you are familiar with over the NOTwax surface. Iron in the wax until small puddles of NOTwax appear on the surface of the wax. Iron in small circular patterns over the whole base. Scrape, buff, and cork the wax to a fine finish. DO NOT brush or structure the wax, especially if the snow is wet. The goal is to create the smoothest possible finish.

4. If the snow temperature is below 10º F, use as is without applying a NOTwax topcoat. For warmer temperatures apply NOTwax as a topcoat before using.

5. Apply NOTwax to the waxed surface twice a day or as needed. You now have a very hard, smooth waxed surface that is also totally hydrophobic. The NOTwax primer will come up through the wax to internally lubricate it, and the surface NOTwax will refresh the primer and protect the wax from wear. This treatment will be much more slippery and greatly outlast any conventional hard hot-wax, fluoro or otherwise. Even more impressive, various versions of the Felix Process have been reported to be effective from -20° F (yes, that's 20 below zero) to 32° F snow temperature!